Surfer Tyler Wright went through hell and back. Now she’s making history competing in a Pride jersey.

“I’m not scared to say, ‘This is what I stand for.’ I want to show that surfing can be a welcoming space for LGBTQ+ athletes.” 

Two-time world champion Tyler Wright made surfing history when she slid into the waters of Maui’s Honolua Bay on Monday morning by becoming the first professional surfer to compete with a Pride flag on her jersey. 

It may seem like a small gesture in a sport that projects a progressive, laid-back culture, but Wright hopes to ignite long-overdue conversations about the realities of LGBTQ+ athletes who surf. She poured over the decision after spending 14 months recovering from a devastating illness — with the help and love of her partner giving her new-found strength and belief in herself. 

“I have an opportunity to show up and be exactly who I am,” Wright said via phone from Maui. “This is how I want to show up in my surfing. I want to show up with my humanity first and foremost and with my values. My values are equality and inclusion, that’s what I want to represent.”

Like most professional athletes, surfers wear jerseys with their name and number on the back. World Surf League athletes, who come from across the globe, also wear the flag of their home country on both shoulders. Wright, a 26-year-old Australian, made the choice to start the 2021 WSL season with the Progress Pride flag—which highlights marginalized people of color and trans individuals—as a public nod to her queer identity.

“I don’t want to say I was hiding before, but now I am encouraged enough to lean into who I am,” Wright said. “I’m not scared to say, ‘Look, this is what I stand for.’ I want to show others that surfing can be a welcoming space for LGBTQ+ athletes.” 

Tyler Wright custom jersey/WSL Keoki Saguibo

Wright isn’t the first professional surfer to compete as an out athlete — that distinction goes to 2019 Women’s Big Wave World Title winner Keala Kennelly — but she is the most high-profile. A back-to-back world champion in 2016 and 2017, Wright is a veteran of the world surfing stage and the winner of 13 Championship Tour events. Wright, who comes from a surfing family, has been one of the sport’s brightest stars, a fixture on the scene after winning her first Tour title at the age of 14. 

In a year when athletes have taken a knee or staged wildcat strikes to protest for racial and social justice, it would be tempting to write off the Pride flag as a performative gesture, but Wright’s statement is more than a token nod to woke politics. It’s the culmination of a long, arduous journey and marks a major step forward in surfing’s conservative political culture. 

For much of the past two years, Wright had been unable to compete as she battled post-viral syndrome brought on by a bout of influenza A she contracted in South Africa in July 2018. She was bedridden for almost 14 months, suffering from fatigue, headaches and a brain fog that left large gaps in her memory. Not only was her body devastated, but she was dealing with an emotional reckoning of who she was as a person and an athlete. 

“I was away from the tour, from surfing, for almost two years,” she said. “It was a really hard time, and I had a lot of things stripped away from me. I had to sit with who I was and then think about the person I was presenting to the world. I felt like there was a bit of a disconnection between that.”

Tyler Wright/(Photo by Keoki Saguibo/World Surf League
(Photo by Keoki Saguibo/World Surf League

Wright said she made it through that time with the help of her family and her former partner, singer Alex Lynn. It was falling in love, Wright said, that helped her realize the need to be more open about her queer identity. 

“I feel in love with an incredible human being, and that opened my world to a whole new world that I had never realized before,” Wright said. 

At first, Wright, who is bisexual, kept the relationship quiet, and only family members and a few friends knew about it.

“It was kind of one of those things … I just showed up at dinner one day with my partner at the time and that was it. I will always remember telling my younger brother (pro surfer Mikey Wright) and his reaction was just, he high-fived me and just said, ’Fuck yeah,’” Wright said. 

Wright went public with her relationship in an episode of “60 Minutes” in Australia that aired in May of 2019. She also posted about her break up with Lynn on social media, with a touching photo of the two mid-kiss. Because of her illness and then the COVID outbreak, her personal and professional life had yet to really overlap, aside from one Tour event at Maui in 2019. Despite being out, she still found herself battling her own internalized homophobia and surfing’s hetronormative culture. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CATokmbHrgj/

“I was raised in the same society as everyone else is, and that is pretty sexist, homophobic and racist. I was adament that I didn’t want to be known as a gay world champion, I didn’t want to be associated with the LGBTQ community,” Wright said of an especially painful period in her life.  “It’s been a long journey to get here.”

Asked whether she thought surfing had been welcoming to LGBTQ+ athletes in the past, Wright’s answer was short and unequivocal. 

“No.”

While the sport of surfing has its origins in the rebellious, counter culture movement, much of the modern surfing complex is remarkably conservative, dealing with the same issues that plague many male-dominated sports, like homophobia and toxic masculinity. There is a disconnect between how the sport is marketed — as a cool, progressive space — and the reality of what surf culture is. 

“The ocean may not judge based on sexuality or gender identity, but many surfers do,” Surfer magazine Editor-in-Chief Todd Prodanovich wrote in a recent cover story about LGBTQ+ surf history. Prodanovich went on to say that while homophobic slurs aren’t as common as they once were, surf culture—which is mainly rich, white and has it’s power centers in conservative enclaves—still has a long way to go in creating safe, inclusive spaces for all athletes. 

“The problem persists in different forms. You might see Stab’s Instagram post about renaming the ‘sex change’ skateboard trick the ‘Caitlyn Jenner’ in surfing. Or maybe you’ll find the post on a San Diego surf shop’s page where Kelly Slater calls a shaper he’s feuding with ‘sexually confused,’ ” he wrote. 

Tyler Wright/WSL / KELLY CESTARI
WSL / KELLY CESTARI

In the past, the mere hint of a surfer being gay was enough to get sponsorships dropped and media coverage taken away

Kennelly, who said she stopped “trying to hide who she was” around 2007, has spoken out about the pressure she felt by her sponsors to present herself as heterosexual. 

“It’s like, ‘You don’t have to have sex with me to keep your job, but you have to make me want to have sex with you,’” she told The New York Times. “It’s fun seeing you in a bikini, but it’s not fun seeing you charge giant waves.’ ”

The topic has also been explored in depth in the film Out in the Line Up, which documents the struggles of surfing’s LGBTQ+ community. 

“What would surfing look like if it was equal, inclusive and safe?” Wright said on the WSL’s The Lineup podcast. “That’s something I’ve really reflected on. What direction are we going in?”

While problematic remnants of the broader culture remain, the industry reaction to Wright’s decision to wear a Pride flag shows things have at least progressed marginally forward. Wright said she had no fear of losing her long-time sponsorship contract with surf brand Rip Curl and that the World Surf League did not hesitate to back her decision.  

“They have supported me the entire time, from start to finish, and are still supporting me today. I’m incredibly grateful to be a part of the league that embraces standing up for equality and inclusion.” 

Tyler Wright/WSL
Tyler Wright/WSL

“It was a short internal conversation on our part,” WSL CEO Erik Logan said. “We didn’t need to have meetings about it or take a vote. Our main mission is to support our athletes however we can and we’re very proud of Tyler and her decision.” 

This isn’t the first time that surfers have requested differing flags on their jerseys to honor their identity and heritage. In 2019, New Zealand surfer Ricardo Christie competed with the Maori flag on his right shoulder and Australian surfer Soli Bailey paid homage to his Indigenous Australian roots by wearing the Aboriginal flag.

Wright understands, and is grateful for, the many who came before her in surfing and elsewhere that paved the way for her decision. 

“This is my way of honoring that and saying thank you for inspiring me as well,” she said. “I also honor the people that have come before me in surfing, because I know they’ve struggled, I know the discrimination that they have faced.” 

Wright said she found inspiration not just in surfers like Kennelly, but athletes like the WNBA’s Sue Bird and USWNT icon Megan Rapinoe whose examples helped show her the power of representation.  

https://www.instagram.com/p/CF3Igfkn-AN/

“I have so much gratitude for those who have come out and spoken about it, for owning who they are. These women, these athletes, they own their sexuality, they own their gender, they own their identity, they own every part of them, and for me, I’ve taken so much from them,” she said. 

It was through watching the WNBA stand for social justice and the Black Lives Matter movement that Wright started to think about her platform, her privilege and how she could best use it. Their example is what spurred her to protest before the Tweed Coast Pro in mid-September, where she cut into her heat and took a knee for 439 seconds —one second each to honor the 439 First Nations persons in Australia who have lost their lives in police custody since 1991.

Tyler Wright
Tyler Wright/WSL

“I personally feel like I have a responsibility, as well, being in the position I’m in and with the platform that I have,” Wright said of her burgeoning activism. 

While taking a knee and wearing a Pride flag can seem inconsequential in certain sports spaces, they’re a bold step forward in a sport that has long prided itself on being apolitical. 

“Surfing is a part of society, and I don’t think we’re exempt from any of these issues that society is facing,” Wright said. “We’re founded on heteronormative, patriarchal ways and ideology. We have homophobia, we have sexism, we have racism, and I feel like once you know more, you can do more.” 

Right now, surfing is just beginning to have these conversations out in the open. For years, groups like Black Girl Surf Club, Benny’s Club and Queer Surf Club have long been challenging the sport’s dominate narrative and pushing from the fringes for more inclusion. Wright is joining the small chorus of pro surfers, like Selema Masekela, who have been leading the way in the fight for change. 

“For a long time, I did my best to be like, ‘oh cool, we’re all bros,’ even though people said dumb, racist shit to me all the time,” Masekela said on The Lineup. “Whenever I had the chance, I started to speak and be more vocal…but I did the dance until I decided I can’t dance anymore…I just wanted to be seen for what I had to give.” 

Sal Masekela WSL
Sal Masekela raises a fist in Encinitas, California WSL / BRADY LAWRENCE

Earlier this summer, as social justice protests swept across America, surfers hosted paddle outs for inclusion and equality. The unrest over issues of race in the country and around the world, became something the culture and industry could no longer casually brush aside. 

It’s too early to say if Wright’s activism will spur other surfers to speak out or take a stand in similar ways, but she hopes her actions support those that have come before her and help push the sport into examining their deep and troubled history with race and inclusion. 

“Keeping surfing apolitical isn’t something I agree with,” Wright said on The Lineup podcast. “People say it’s in the best interest of surfing, but it’s really in the interest of hetro, white men.”

Wright knows she has a long way to go, in her surfing and in her activism, and is just starting to find the true power of her voice. But as, she charges into the 2021 season, she’s taken the pain and struggle —physical and emotional—of the past two years and fashioned it into something she hopes will lead to lasting change. 

“I’m not scared. I’m proud to be a part of the community,” Wright said. “I’m exactly who I am today and that is beautiful.” 

Maya Gabeira sets new World Record for the largest wave ever surfed by a woman

Watch Gabeira rip down the face of a wave that measured 73.5 feet.

The World Surf League’s inaugural Big Wave Nazaré Tow Surfing contest happened earlier this year in Portugal, where daring big wave surfers from around the world gathered at the infamous Praia do Norte surf break to test their mettle. A thrilling but dangerous spot, the massive swells at Nazaré mean waves routinely reach the height of small buildings, leaving no room for the faint of heart.

This year, Brazil’s Maya Gabeira not only won the cbdMD XXL Biggest Wave Award for her ride at Nazaré in February, but she set a new Guinness World Record for largest wave ever surfed by a woman. After a jet ski tow in, Gabeira ripped down the face of this monster, which officials have measured at 73.5 feet. In doing so, she beat her own previous world record of riding a 68-foot wave, set in 2018.

While the men and women compete in different categories, Gabeira’s ride also beat out Kai Lenny, the men’s Biggest Wave winner, whose ride measured 70 feet.

“I’m not a competitive person but I was very in the zone and felt braver than I usually am on this day,” Gabeira said via phone to For The Win. “I was just very focused and committed.”

Gabeira said that she had inkling this could be one of the biggest rides of her career as soon as she let go of the tow rope.

“I could tell by the speed, ok this is something, but the noise, the noise behind me when the wave broke really let me know. It was the most powerful, most loud sound and I knew it was something different, something that I had not done before.”

In a rare occurrence, the wave Gabeira rode came close to another ride by female surfer Justine Dupont, whose ride measured just 2 to 3 feet shorter, according to the WSL.

Measuring big waves isn’t an exact science, but the World Surf League called in a panel of experts to determine the relative size of the wave. Adam Fincham, a scientist at the University of Southern California, Department of Aerospace and Mechanical Engineering, said the team used a sequence of photos and videos and then did some good old fashioned math to determine the size.

“We studied the angles and used geometry to determine the size,” Fincham said. “We could be slightly off in the measure, but there’s no doubt that this wave is bigger than the one in 2018 and what else was surfed that day.”

Another key and unlikely factor the team used was the jet ski that Gabeira towed in on.

“That became our measuring stick,” Fincham said.”It was important to note that as waves break, they change, and we judged the wave at the time the surfer dropped into it, not before, to get the full height.”

While many may think that big wave surfers have a cavalier attitude towards danger, Gabeira said that’s far from the truth. While her big wave ride, and the validation that comes with a new world record was a thrill, she’s not eager to do it again.

“I was too close to danger,” Gabeira said with a laugh over the phone. “I wouldn’t do that again. I think I only have so many I can survive, right?”

World Surf League cancels 2020 season due to coronavirus pandemic

There are also major changes coming to the 2021 season, which kicks off in November.

The World Surf League announced early Friday morning that they have decided to cancel their 2020 season, including the Championship Tour.

WSL CEO Erik Logan made the announcement.

“After careful consideration and extensive discussions with key stakeholders, we have made the decision to cancel the 2020 Championship Tour and Qualifying Series seasons due to the COVID-19 pandemic,” Logan said. “While we firmly believe that surfing is amongst the sports best suited for competition to be held safely during the age of unresolved COVID, we have huge respect for the ongoing concerns of many in our community as the world works to resolve this.”

Surfing seems like the one sport where COVID-19 risks could be minimized—athletes are able to totally social distance and all events take place outside—but the WSL also has events that take place literally all around the world, leaving too many logistical and practical concerns about spreading the virus.

Not only is so much travel potentially dangerous to athletes, but countries have varied wildly in their responses to the pandemic. While some countries have it under control, others are a total mess.  Trying to shuttle athletes between boarders could be a huge public health risk.

In addition shuttering the 2020 season, the WSL has also announced multiple changes to the format of the 2021 season.

In a a major departure, the Billabong Pipe Masters, which has traditionally been the last event on the WSL’s tour calendar, will kick off the Men’s CT in December of 2020. The Women’s CT will kick off with the Maui Pro in November of 2020.

In another major change, the WSL has announced ‘The WSL Finals’ event which will decide the world title winner. The World Title, usually determined by points earned throughout the season, will now be decided in a single-day event, among the CT’s top competitors.  Per the WSL, the top five men and women in the Championship Tour “will battle for their respective titles in a new surf-off format at one of the world’s best waves. ”

Honestly, that sounds incredible for viewers but a real departure from the past where World Champions have been crowned by a cumulative points total.  Bringing it all down to one race at the end, pitting the best surfers of the year against each other, certainly heightens the drama.

Additionally, for the first time ever, there will be an equal number of men’s and women’s CT events.  In other great move and for the first time since 2006, the women’s tour will compete with the men at Teahupo’o.

If you’re bummed that you won’t get to see your favorite surfers tear it up until November,  CT tour stars will also be participating in regional events in less pandemic ravaged countries like Australia, France, and Portugal over the next few months.  The WSL is also hosting a mixed-gender “Rumble at the Ranch” contest out in Lemoore, California later this summer.

If you’re still with me, here’s the full 2021 Men’s and Women’s CT schedule, pandemic permitting.

Shiseido Maui Pro, Honolua Bay, Maui, Hawaii: November 25 – December 5, 2020
Billabong Pipe Masters, Oahu, Hawaii: December 8 – 20, 2020
MEO Pro Peniche, Portugal: February 18 – 28, 2021
Snapper Rocks, Gold Coast, Australia: March 18 – 28, 2021
Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, Victoria, Australia: April 1 – 11, 2021
Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia: April 16 – 26, 2021
Oi Rio Pro Saquarema, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil: May 20 – 29, 2021
Surf Ranch, Lemoore, California, USA: June 10 – 13, 2021
Quiksilver Pro G-Land, Indonesia: June 20 – 29, 2021
Supertubes, Jeffreys Bay, South Africa: July 7 – 19, 2021
Teahupo’o, Tahiti: August 26 – September 6, 2021
The WSL Finals, Location TBD: September 8 – 16, 2021

Big-wave surfer nearly dies in jetski mishap at Nazaré

After surviving a wipeout in the dangerous surf of Portugal’s Nazaré, pro surfer Alex Botelho very nearly died during the subsequent rescue.

After surviving a wipeout in the dangerous surf of Portugal’s Nazaré, a famous big-wave destination, pro surfer Alex Botelho very nearly died during the subsequent rescue when he and his partner, who was driving a jetski, were sent flying by colliding waves.

The incident occurred Tuesday during the World Surf League’s Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge, and it had those watching from shore holding their collective breath.

After the wipeout, the Portuguese surfer was picked up by partner Hugo Vau on a jetski, but they were unable to outrun a wall of whitewater and went airborne when an approaching wave slammed into them. Moments later, another wave washed over them as the cameraman panned the water.

Anxious moments passed as spectators watched in hopes that Botelho would pop up to the surface. Vau had already been located.

Finally, near the shore, Botelho was spotted unconscious and floating facedown in the water. Rescue crews from shore were quick to reach him and place him on a spinal board. Botelho was rushed to the hospital.

The WSL announced later that he was “stable and conscious,” and that he was to remain hospitalized for further evaluation.

Also on FTW Outdoors: Spearfisherman dragged out to sea by great white shark

“Today I was confronted with the reality of our sport, heartbreaking watching my brother Alex Botelho between life and death right in front of the eyes of the world,” fellow Portuguese big-wave surfer Nic Von Rupp wrote on Instagram. “Honestly, very few would have survived, just a beast of a human like Alex [could] pull thru…not only because the strong human he is, but mostly for the love many people have for him praying to pull thru.”

Alex Botelho riding at Nazaré in 2016 (above) and walking away with his broken surfboard (below).

The Guardian reported that this was the first time the WSL’s Big Wave world tour has visited Nazaré where Brazilian Rodrigo Koxa set a world record for surfing the biggest wave at 80 feet in 2017.

The WSL was quick to recognize the efforts of the rescue crew, writing on YouTube, “A heartfelt thank you to the safety and medical teams for their quick response. We are wishing Alex a full and speedy recovery. The work of the Water Safety Team in rescuing and saving Alex’s life was incredible.”

Photos of the incident courtesy of the World Surf League. Photos of Alex Botelho riding out a big wave and later carrying his broken surf board at Nazaré in December 2016 by Lars Baron/Getty Images.

Follow David Strege and the outdoors on Facebook.

Rescuer does the impossible to save big-wave surfer

The World Surf League called it “one of the craziest rescues ever seen” when a big-wave surfer was picked up just in the nick of time.

The World Surf League called it “one of the craziest rescues ever seen” when Brazilian big-wave surfer Lucas Chumbo, after exiting a big wave, was picked up by his teammate on a jetski just moments away from total disaster.

The close call occurred during a big-wave session at the famous big-wave locale of Nazaré, Portugal, last Wednesday, and it was captured in video by Pedro Miranda, who posted the footage on Friday.

Chumbo, a 24-year-old from Brazil who is one of the most prominent big-wave surfers in the world, rode a big wave and made a successful exit, leaving him in what is called the inside or the impact zone. His teammate, Ian Cosenza, had only a matter of seconds to reach Chumbo and ride to safety before a following wave of whitewater devoured them.

Amazingly, they were engulfed by whitewater but managed to ride to safety anyway.

“I’ve been filming Nazaré for many years, and during a jetski rescue there is one thing guaranteed: when the whitewater swallows a jetski, it’s game over, period,” Miranda told USA Today/For The Win Outdoors.

“Well, apparently not anymore. What Cosenza did was incredible; he stuck to it and managed to do something we all thought was impossible, especially because of all the bumps and turbulence inside the foam ball. It took a great deal of experience and for sure some luck to pull off this stunt.”

Miranda told For The Win Outdoors “the consequences could’ve been very dramatic, as both of them could be hit by the jetski and knocked unconscious right in the worst place of Praia do Norte.”

Miranda said the surfer and his rescuing teammate “are redefining the concept of extreme watermen.”

Also on FTW Outdoors: Surfer Bethany Hamilton shares powerful message

In his description with the video, Miranda explained further, saying, “Cosenza has to go full speed and needs critical control to avoid the bumps in the water that can easily flip the jetski. Given this was a high-period swell, waves are faster than usual (reaching speeds of 60 mph) and eventually the monster wall of whitewater that is chasing them, end up swallowing the jetski and both surfers.

“When something like this happens it generally doesn’t end well, but incredibly and against all odds, Ian Cosenza saved the day, successfully riding the jetski out of the whitewater and putting them both out of harm’s way.”

Photos courtesy of Pedro Miranda.

Follow David Strege and the outdoors on Facebook.