Photos: Restored Tot Hill Farm in North Carolina offers unique Mike Strantz thrill ride

Feast your eyes on the sometimes wicked artistry of architect Mike Strantz at Tot Hill Farm.

Quirky. Unusual. Remarkable. Bizarre. Artistic. Surreal. Unorthodox. Wild. Weird. Polarizing. Unique.

All those descriptions and plenty more have been used in recent decades to describe the golf courses designed by the late Mike Strantz, whose layouts might best be described as fun for players looking for something completely different, classical orthodoxy be damned.

Having sharpened his pencil as a design associate to Tom Fazio, Strantz created or renovated only nine courses that bear his name as lead designer, most of them in his native Carolinas or nearby Virginia. He passed away in 2005 at the age of 50, a victim of cancer. A hands-on designer, he would spend weeks walking sites or exploring on horseback with a can of spray paint to mark features he either wanted to incorporate or build into the landscape.

Trained in studio art, Strantz would hand-sketch in great detail each hole of a course before it was built, then lead his team of shapers in making his art come to life. Those golf holes often include nearly impossible-to-reach hole locations, wild bunkering, extreme greens, eye-popping mounding and dramatic slopes – all elements beloved by a growing cadre of adventure-seeking golfers.

Tot Hill Farm
Mike Strantz’s detailed sketches of the holes at Tot Hill Farm now decorate the new clubhouse, a refurbished farm house that replaced a trailer that was the previous clubhouse. (Jason Lusk/Golfweek)

Imagine their despair when one of Strantz’s courses falls into disrepair, as happened with several of his layouts, especially in the wake of an industry-wide financial struggle starting in 2008.

Tot Hill Farm Golf Club in Asheboro, North Carolina, is one such example, having opened in 2000 but its former operators lacking the revenues to maintain and present the course as Strantz intended. Trees choked out fairways and strategic lines, bunker edges crumbled and playing surfaces suffered in recent years.

But that all started to change early in 2022 when native South Carolinian Pat Barber bought the course and amenities. Already the owner of two courses nearer the coast in the state – The Links at Stono Ferry and The Plantation Course at Edisto –  Barber recognized an opportunity to restore Tot Hill Farm as acclaim for Strantz’s designs continues to grow, especially with the increasing popularity of the nearby Strantz-designed Tobacco Road.

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“Working with the course itself, the overall natural beauty, that really attracted us to the property,” said Greg Wood, the director of operations for all three of Barber’s course. “I’ve seen Mike in video interviews saying that he felt this was one of the best pieces of properties that he got to use in his design work. All we could see was the potential.”

A restoration of Tot Hill began in the spring of 2022, and it’s easy now to say this layout has rejoined the brief list of can’t-miss Strantz designs. It would be oversight for any Strantz fan to head to the nearby golf mecca of Pinehurst or the Carolina coast and miss the incredible amount of work that has gone into turning around the rolling and rollicking Tot Hill Farm.

The site always held so much promise. With more than 250 of feet of elevation change and boulders littering the landscape, the holes frequently heave up, down and across rambling creeks, the greens often perched perfectly into hillsides. The whole place just needed somebody to come along and scrape away 20 years of hard times.

More than 1,500 trees were cleared, re-establishing fairway widths and playing lines. Several arbitrary bunkers that weren’t part of Strantz’s design were removed, and his original traps were reinvigorated. Players must plot their way around them, and with the corridors having been widened, there are choices available instead of the previous condition of bowling alley tightness between the branches that choked out shot selection as well the health of the turf.

Tot Hill Farm
The green at the par-5 fifth at Tot Hill Farm is shaped like no other putting surface this author has seen, with a tiny portion in the front that rises abruptly to a much larger back section. The shape leads to this green earning some unusual nicknames – think juvenile humor, but be sure to lay up well to the right on the second shot if you plan to hit it. (Jason Lusk/Golfweek)

The greens were rebuilt and surfaced with Prizm Zoysia, a new strain of grass that promises to withstand Asheboro’s cold winters that are too frigid for Bermuda grass and the hot summers that are too steamy for bent grass to thrive. The new surfaces are still growing in, but during a late-fall round they had started to pick up some steam and promise even more to come. An interesting fact about this strain of zoysia: The grass covering is so dense, it’s almost impossible to leave a pitch mark on a green, and that same characteristic is promising for the preferred firm and bouncy conditions.

Wood is quick to call all the work a restoration effort, not a renovation. Crews worked in painstaking detail to put back what Strantz had intended, frequently using the architect’s hand-drawings – those sketches now decorate the new clubhouse that has been created in an idyllic old farmhouse, replacing a trailer that served that function before. The restorers also had access to more than 40 hours of construction video featuring the original design.

“Over time, we figured out how it’s supposed to be,” Wood, a longtime PGA of America member, said of Strantz’s design which is a likely contender for future inclusion among Golfweek’s Best public-access courses in North Carolina. “And for somebody like me, figuring out the puzzle and the why – even now, as I walk a hole, I’ll find something new.”

Playing Tot Hill is a mixture of various wows and walking on eggshells, so far as the scorecard goes. Strantz clearly wasn’t interested in building easy golf, and several holes prove Tot Hill is no exception. Much like Tobacco Road just more than an hour’s drive away, Tot Hill Farm in particular punishes wayward approach shots, the greens frequently seeming to shrug off approach shots with a “not-good-enough” attitude.

Tot Hill Farm
The green of the par-3 third at Tot Hill Farm sits over a creek that wraps tightly behind the putting surface as well, with the back portion of the green guarded by a hill and a deep bunker. (Jason Lusk/Golfweek)

Strantz included sections on several greens that might prove inaccessible to all but a tour player’s towering precision. The skinny back right hole location on the par-3 third hole, hidden behind sand aside a hill with a creek just steps off the back, will likely prove to an average player to be a no-go.

Another thrilling tear-jerker is the drop-down rear portion of the 10th green before the putting surface tumbles steeply downhill to form a double green with No. 12, the center portion now covered in tight fringe instead of even lower green-height zoysia. Just try and hit the back right portion of the par-3 13th green, hidden beyond a stream and behind a boulder.

There are other oddities. For example, several tees are routed in such a way that players must double back and play directly across previous holes, as noted on No. 4 and possibly No. 14 if a restored tee atop a hill is put into play. Such routing can create odd bottlenecks, and while it might be manageable on a private course with limited rounds, it could prove problematic on a packed day of public play.

These and other examples might cause a facial tic among some classic architecture purists. But with plenty of width now available, a thoughtful golfer can find a way around all the trouble, choosing to play to safer sections of the greens on each of the examples above, then putting the putter to use in search of par. All around Tot Hill Farm is danger to a golfer’s score, and close by is a safer route. It’s up to the golfer to put aside ego and expectation, accepting the limitations of what Strantz offered in some places while pouncing on opportunities when friendlier hole locations are identified. There are birdies out there.

In short, it’s all about the strategy. And that might begin even before the first tee shot, as the frustrations of Tot Hill Farm’s difficulties most greatly affect stroke play. This could be one of the best match-play courses in the U.S., for those who embrace that format.

“If you come back and play this course several times, the thing you’ll find intriguing is there are multiple ways to play every hole,” Wood said. “When I first took on the project, I didn’t really understand that. But as I continue on and on with it, I find that very intriguing and I’m enjoying it more and more.”

Tot Hill Farm
Nos. 10 and 12 at Tot Hill Farm share what originally was a pure double green and still plays that way, with the steep area between mowed to a tight and bouncy fringe height. No. 10 plays in from the bottom right, while No. 12 plays across the water from the left. No. 10 green proper features a huge downward slope midway through the green, which can send balls hit too deep cascading all the way down to the water or No. 12. (Courtesy of Tot Hill Farm/Ryan Barnett)

The layout reopened in the fall of 2023, and bookings are picking up speed for 2024. Green fees are relatively low, currently $70 through the winter with a peak of $125 planned for the new year – carts are an extra $25. Tot Hill Farm is also appearing as a packaged option around Pinehurst, which is less than an hour to the south via Interstate 74.

The best way to enjoy Strantz’s work at Tot Hill Farm might be to race across the Carolinas, playing Tot Hill and Tobacco Road in North Carolina before heading to the coast to sample Strantz’s Caledonia Golf and Fish Club and True Blue near Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. For an adventurous group of golfers, that would be an unforgettable trek.

And it’s just such players that are most likely to book and rebook rounds at Tot Hill Farm. It’s not a classical layout, and it might be too severe in places to tickle every player’s fancy. But the recent surge in popularity for Strantz courses, particularly on Instagram and X-the-former-Twitter, will surely help Tot Hill’s operators fill the tee sheets.

“We think the adventure-style golf course, Mike was kind of at the forefront of it, and we feel like we’re bringing something that was almost forgotten back to people,” Wood said. “We feel really fortunate to be a part of it. Unfortunately, Mike passed away way too soon. For us to be caretakers of a Mike Strantz course, we find that to be a real honor.”

Here are more photos of the course:

Where to play golf around Pinehurst: Golfweek’s Best 2023 public-access courses

Thanks to Golfweek’s Best rankings, we break out the top public-access courses around Pinehurst, North Carolina.

Looking to play one of the top golf regions in the world, with great courses stacked alongside great courses? Look no further than Pinehurst, North Carolina.

From classic dream layouts to modern works of art, there are a dozen courses within a half-hour’s drive of Pinehurst that rank among the top 20 public-access courses in North Carolina.

For this exercise, we used Google Maps and punched in each course as of a Saturday morning to determine drive times. And included with this list is a general map of where to find all these courses. Each one on the list below is represented with a number on the map – keep scrolling to see the numbers.

And keep in mind, the numbers represent how the courses are ranked, and it can become a bit confusing as the courses at the famed Pinehurst Resort are named numerically. For example, Pinehurst No. 2 ranks No. 1 on this list, and it appears accordingly as No. 1 on the map.

Included with each course is its position in North Carolina on the Golfweek’s Best public-access list. For any course that appears on our other popular rankings lists, those positions are included as well.

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A little background: The hundreds of members of our course-ratings panel continually evaluate courses and rate them on 10 criteria on a points basis of 1 through 10. They also file a single, overall rating on each course. Those overall ratings are averaged to produce all our Golfweek’s Best course rankings.

The courses on this list allow public access in some fashion, be it standard daily green fees, through a resort or casino, by staying at an affiliated hotel or purchasing a golf vacation package. If there’s a will, there’s a tee time – no membership required, although Pinewild Country Club is a special case on this list with an editor’s note below.

Pinehurst map
(Google Earth/Golfweek)

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Management company Troon takes the reins at Tobacco Road in North Carolina

The world’s largest golf management company takes the reins at one of the most interesting courses in the U.S.

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Troon, the Arizona-based golf management company that has seen rapid expansion in recent months, has been selected to manage one of the most interesting courses in the U.S.: Tobacco Road in Sanford, North Carolina.

Designed by the late Mike Strantz and established in 1998, Tobacco Road has built an almost cult-like following of players looking for something different. The layout’s sometimes-extreme greens and incredible terrain have kept the tee sheet full for years, and Tobacco Road ranks No. 6 in a stacked North Carolina on Golfweek’s Best 2023 list of top public-access courses. It also ties for No. 79 on Golfweek’s Best list of top public-access courses in the U.S.

Those rankings don’t necessarily express the views of diehard fans, many of whom would rank what is in many ways a non-traditional layout among the top handful of modern courses in the U.S.

Such players tend to love that Tobacco Road plays almost like a video game, presenting shots and strategic challenges not seen at many other courses. Think semi-blind shots to frequently crazy greens featuring dramatic contours and run-offs – Strantz wasn’t interested in the status quo of golf design, and he wasn’t afraid to turn up the volume with his designs.

Tobacco Road
No. 18 at Tobacco Road, with the clubhouse in view (Courtesy of Tobacco Road Golf Club)

With the right frame of mind, it’s all incredibly fun – judged by many to be as much art as a golf course. And after decades of family management, the course 25 miles north of Pinehurst will now be under the management of Troon, the largest golf and golf-hospitality management company in the world.

“After thoroughly evaluating our options for management of Tobacco Road, we are excited to select Troon as the steward of Mike Strantz’s uncompromising design,” Tobacco Road Golf Club founder Mark Stewart said in a media release announcing the news.

Troon has been on a tear lately, acquiring several other management companies. The company now manages the equivalent of 840-plus 18-hole golf courses. Under its care are multiple top-tier daily-fee courses and private clubs.

“Troon is proud and honored to partner with Tobacco Road and founder Mark Stewart,” Troon director of operations Dana Schultz said in the media release. “This Top-100 golf course has been a successful family-run operation for decades. We look forward to carrying on the Stewart family vision and welcoming golfers to Tobacco Road Golf Club.”

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Where to play golf in Pinehurst, N.C.: Pinehurst Resort, Pine Needles, Mid Pines, Tobacco Road and more

Pinehurst Resort, Mid Pines, Pine Needles, Tobacco Road, Mid South and more among the state’s ranked courses in Golfweek’s Best.

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PINEHURST, N.C. – I won’t bother writing that you should play golf in Pinehurst. You already know that. The Sandhills region of North Carolina is dubbed the Home of American Golf for a reason.

Advising well-traveled players they should try out Pinehurst is akin to telling gearheads that Ferraris are nice or suggesting a foodie sample something beyond the SpaghettiOs. But until you immerse yourself in Pinehurst, it’s difficult to imagine how much the game defines this little village and its surrounds – and vice versa. It’s one of the few places in the world where just about any conversation can safely begin with the question, “How you been hitting it?”

So many options among great courses. So many chances to bunk up in historic lodging. So many shots to be hit by so many golfers. Pinehurst doesn’t simply scratch an itch to play somewhere new, or even old – it fulfills a deeper need to immerse oneself in the game. Even the USGA is tapping into that need, building a second HQ in Pinehurst and bringing more national championships, feeding on the game’s energy that flourishes among the tall trees and sandy soil.

The only problem is time. How to set aside enough days to sample it all?

Pinehurst No. 8
Pinehurst No. 8 in North Carolina (Courtesy of Pinehurst Resort)

That’s where the Golfweek’s Best Courses You Can Play list for the top public-access layouts in each state comes into play. The list for North Carolina includes 15 courses, with more than half around Pinehurst. So while I won’t bother telling you that you should play golf in Pinehurst, we can look at the rankings list to see where you might want to start among the region’s 40-plus layouts.

The eponymous Pinehurst Resort is an obvious choice, home to four of the top 15 public-access tracks in North Carolina, including the famed No. 2. But the great golf doesn’t end at the resort’s sprawling borders or on its numerical lineup. Four more of the top 15 layouts in the state lie just beyond. It’s an area so packed with strong golf that, given time, it’s entirely possible to play all eight of these layouts without stopping to refuel a rental car.

Carolina Hotel Pinehurst
The Carolina Hotel at Pinehurst Resort in North Carolina (Courtesy of Pinehurst)

The ranked lineup truly does offer golf to suit just about any taste. Old courses that define classic architecture. More recent courses that promise modern flair. Restored courses. Renovated courses. Even a newish par-3 course that shouldn’t be missed. You get the idea – it’s all here.

I set out on an epic adventure of golf earlier this year to see exactly how much Pinehurst golf could be squeezed into four and a half days. Trust me, it’s a lot of steps. I played six of the best-in-state public-access courses in the Pinehurst area plus two private clubs and a quick trip around the hottest par-3 course in town. That was all a follow-up to a previous trip in which I played the other best-in-state courses. There is no doubt, if you want to play as many solid golf holes as possible in the shortest amount of time, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better destination than Pinehurst and the courses below.

Golfweek’s Best Courses You Can Play: North Carolina

Donald Ross, one through five. That’s basically the roundup for the top public-access courses in North Carolina.

Donald Ross, one through five. That’s basically the roundup for the top public-access courses in North Carolina, as the famed designer left fingerprints all across the Golfweek’s Best rankings in the Tar Heel State.

Best of all, there is a great variety among just those five. And scrolling down the list leaves plenty of other great options as well, be they original Ross designs or modern renovations on ground that Ross first shaped into golf courses.

Golfweek ranks courses by compiling the average ratings – on a points basis of 1 to 10 – of its more than 750 raters to create several industry-leading lists of courses. That includes the popular Best Courses You Can Play list for courses that allow non-member tee times. These generally are defined as layouts accessible to resort guests or regular daily-fee players.

No. 1 is, without any irony of nomenclature, No. 2 (pictured atop this story). The famed No. 2 course at Pinehurst Resort was built by Ross and opened in 1903. The native Scotsman loved the Sandhills around the resort so much that he lived there in a house, now known as the Dornoch Cottage and named for his birthplace, off No. 2’s third fairway from 1925 until his death in 1948.

No. 2 might be the best example of what have become known as Ross greens, frequently crowned with runoffs in all directions. Picture a turtle shell or an upside-down saucer –  these kinds of greens demands on approach shots and even chips as players try to keep balls on the putting surfaces. The design team of Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw renovated No. 2 a decade ago, returning the course to its sandy past while preserving the famed greens.

No. 2 has been the host of three U.S. Opens, with the next coming in 2024 and several more on the schedule as the U.S. Golf Association plans to move a second headquarters to Pinehurst, complete with club-testing facilities and more. Besides being the top public-access course in North Carolina, No. 2 ranks third on Golfweek’s Best Resort Courses list for the whole U.S. and is 15th on the Golfweek’s Best Classic Courses list for all layouts opened before 1960 in the U.S.

Pinehurst No. 4 in North Carolina (Courtesy of Pinehurst)

Players don’t have to look far to find the next course on Golfweek’s Best Courses You Can Play list in North Carolina. The course named No. 4 at Pinehurst Resort sits in the second spot, as well as sitting right next door to No. 2. Ross originally laid out a course on that rolling land, with six holes opening in 1913 and the full, original 18 available in 1919. The course was renovated over the ensuring decades by Robert Trent Jones and then Tom Fazio, and in 2018 Gil Hanse completed the most recent reimagining of the layout. Since then, No. 4 has jumped up the course ratings and ranks 28th on Golfweek’s Best Resort Courses list.

No. 3 in North Carolina is Mid Pines just across town from the famed resort. Built by Ross in 1921 on ground that features more elevation changes than Nos. 2 or 4, Mid Pines was restored in 2013 by Kyle Franz. Shorter and more intimate, Mid Pines is a can’t-miss course in the Sandhills region.

Mid Pines in North Carolina (Courtesy of Mid Pines)

The fourth-ranked Pine Needles sits just across the street from Mid Pines and is owned by the same operating group founded by LPGA legend Peggy Kirk Bell. Also restored by Franz in 2017, this Ross design has hosted three U.S. Women’s Opens and will be the site for that event again in 2022. It’s a bigger layout than Mid Pines, with more length available as a championship test, and the two courses’ proximity and heritage make them a perfect target for traveling golfers.

No. 5 among North Carolina’s public-access layouts is Linville Golf Club, another Ross design that opened in 1924 about a three-hour drive west of Pinehurst.

But don’t consider those to be a complete roundup of must-see courses in North Carolina, which is ridiculously stacked with great public-access layouts, especially around the Pinehurst area.

Pine Needles
Pine Needles in North Carolina (Courtesy of Pine Needles)

The resort, for example, had four courses in all on the 2020 Golfweek’s Best Courses You Can Play list for North Carolina, with the course named No. 8 ranking seventh in the state and the course known as No. 7 ranked ninth.

A short drive north of Pinehurst in Sanford is Tobacco Road, ranked sixth among public-access courses in the state. Completed by the highly creative Mike Strantz in 1988, Tobacco Road offers several holes the likes of which won’t be found anywhere else – at times it feels more like a video game, trying to bounce balls off dramatic slopes to avoid hazards that scream to players, “Don’t go here.” Great fun.

And Mid South at Talamore Golf Resort, not far from Pine Needles and Mid Pines, was built by Arnold Palmer as a much more modern-feeling layout, and it ranks No. 13 in North Carolina.

Tobacco Road in North Carolina (Golfweek files)

Also worth noting, Franz in 2021 is working on another restoration of a Ross course at Southern Pines, improving the layout at the behest of the same owners of Mid Pines and Pine Needles. Southern Pines ranked No. 15 in North Carolina before the restoration. Sitting on some of the hilliest ground of any course around Pinehurst, it promises to be another great destination for traveling players when the work is planned to be completed in the fall of 2021.

Golfweek’s Best Courses You Can Play in North Carolina

1. Pinehurst (No. 2)
Pinehurst (16 c)

2. Pinehurst (No. 4)
Pinehurst (T88 m)

3. Mid Pines
Southern Pines (c)

4. Pine Needles
Southern Pines (c)

5. Linville GC
Linville (c)

6. Tobacco Road
Sanford (m)

7. Pinehurst (No. 8)
Pinehurst (m)

8. Bald Head Island Club
Bald Head Island (m)

9. UNC Finley Golf Course
Chapel Hill (m)

10. Duke University GC
Durham (c)

11. Pinehurst (No. 7)
Pinehurst (m)

12. Ocean Ridge Plantation (Tiger’s Eye)*
Ocean Isle Beach (m)

13. The Omni Grove Park Inn
Asheville (c)

14. Ocean Ridge Plantation (Leopard’s Chase)
Ocean Isle Beach (m)

15. Mid South
Southern Pines (m)

Golfweek’s Best Private Courses in North Carolina

1. Wade Hampton Club
Cashiers (No. 11 m)

2. Old Town Club
Winston-Salem (T21 c)

3. Mountaintop
Cashiers (T59 m)

4. Quail Hollow Club
Charlotte (T65 m)

5. Grandfather (Championship)
Linville (T69 m)

6. Roaring Gap Club
Roaring Gap (T78 c)

7. Charlotte CC
Charlotte (T83 c)

8. Diamond Creek
Banner Elk (T76 m)

9. Eagle Point
Wilmington (m)

10. Dormie Club
West End (m)

11. Forest Creek (North)
Pinehurst (m)

12. Biltmore Forest
Asheville (c)

13. Champion Hills
Hendersonville (m)

14. Cape Fear
Wilmington (c)

15. Cliffs at Walnut Cove
Arden (m)

*New to the list in 2020

(m): modern; (c): classic

Golfweek’s Best Top 30 Campus Courses

The rankings below reflect where these courses fall among the top 30 Campus Courses in the United States.

20. Duke University GC, 5.95

Durham, N.C.; Robert Trent Jones Sr., Rees Jones, 1957

21. UNC Finley GC, 5.91

Chapel Hill, N.C.; Tom Fazio, 1999

28. Lonnie Poole GC (N.C. State), 5.67

Raleigh, N.C.; Arnold Palmer, 2009

Golfweek’s Best Top 50 Casino Courses

The rankings below reflect where these courses fall among the top 50 Casino Courses in the United States.

38. Sequoyah National, 5.67

Whittier, N.C.; Robert Trent Jones Jr. 2009

Golfweek’s Best 2020

How we rate them

The members of our course-ratings panel continually evaluate courses and rate them based on our 10 criteria. They also file a single, overall rating on each course. Those overall ratings on each course are averaged together to produce a final rating for each course. Then each course is ranked against other courses in its state, or nationally, to produce the final rankings.

St. Andrews and Pinehurst connected by more than just history

No. 2, No. 4, the Cradle and a strong cast of area courses maintain the status of the North Carolina resort as a must-play destination.

Give or take a DeChambeau drive, it’s about 3,750 miles from the town of St. Andrews in the Kingdom of Fife to the village of Pinehurst in the sandhills of North Carolina. But what distance separates, golf connects.

St. Andrews and Pinehurst are often mentioned in the same breath as homes of the game in the Old World and the New, respectively, not least because both places don’t just embrace golf but rather seem to have grown organically around its finest canvases.

The village of Pinehurst is dominated by its eponymous resort, which can now boast more golf courses than Elizabeth Taylor could ex-husbands. There are nine standard courses, all numbered, and the most celebrated – the Richard Burton, if you like – is No. 2. It has hosted three U.S. Opens, a U.S. Women’s Open, a U.S. Senior Open, a PGA Championship, a Ryder Cup and three U.S. Amateurs. There isn’t another venue in golf that owns such a glittering resume.

When I first visited No. 2 about 15 years ago, much of its strategic charm was buried beneath sod. Its fairways were wall-to-wall grass, generous enough to land an aircraft without disturbing a pine cone. What little it demanded of players off the tee, it made up for around the famously crowned greens, where someone with a stonemason’s touch might ping-pong hither and yon for some time. To wit: A friend once shot an ignominious round of 121 at No. 2. With one ball! 

A long season of change at Pinehurst began a decade ago, when No. 2 was restored by Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw. The duo ripped out 35 acres of turf, leaving native areas dotted with grass and scrub that not only returned long-lost playing angles to the old masterpiece but gave it back real character and authenticity too. You’ll still find almost every wayward shot out there – trust me on this – but No. 2’s demands off the tee are considerably more thoughtful and exacting than they once were.

Pinehurst No. 4, recently redesigned by Gil Hanse and Jim Wagner (Courtesy of Pinehurst)

For my money, No. 2 is No. 2 only to Pacific Dunes among the finest publicly accessible golf courses in America. The U.S. Open returns here in 2024, marking its fourth staging in a quarter-century in Pinehurst.

The rebirth of No. 2 was a springboard for greater change at Pinehurst, a subtle shift that firmly consigned the era of stiff collars and upper lips to the photos adorning the walls and ushered in a more mellow mien. The ambience of the resort and the golf options it offers are much more relaxed these days, to the point of being kid-friendly (if you’re into that sort of thing).

Two years after the new No. 2 was unveiled, Thistle Dhu opened. It’s an 18-hole putting course right by the clubhouse, inspired by the famed Himalayas course in St. Andrews. Two years after that, in 2014, the resort purchased a nearby Jack Nicklaus course called National Golf Club, which became No. 9 for members and guests.

But Pinehurst still suffered the same burden as many other fine resorts –Kiawah Island and Sea Island, to name but two – in that the drop-off in quality between its premier golf course and its other layouts was precipitous. Pinehurst’s second-best was considered No. 4, which had been touched by more designers than a supermodel, all the way back to Donald Ross his ownself. What existed a few years ago was a Tom Fazio design that was popular but unspectacular.

So Pinehurst hired Gil Hanse and gave him a bulldozer. Both did fine work.

What exists today is unrecognizable from what was there previously. No. 4 shares only a number and a footprint with its predecessors, and today suggests more the native, sandy look of No. 2 than the parkland vibe of the old Fazio effort (though its contours are considerably more helpful than those of its more feted neighbor). A year after reopening, No. 4 co-hosted the ’19 U.S. Amateur with No. 2.

It was not Hanse’s only mark on Pinehurst.

In 2017, Hanse created the Cradle, presumably so named because it will rock you. Located by the clubhouse and right next to Thistle Dhu, it’s a 9-hole adventure, with holes ranging in length from 56 yards to 126 yards. All you need to navigate the Cradle is a putter, a couple of wedges and a thirst for entertainment. On any given day, the Cradle is peopled with more than a few aspiring golfers who are still years away from being old enough to tackle the more storied course around the corner of the clubhouse. Fees are $50, replays are free and kids under 17 play free when accompanied by a paying adult. The Cradle is as chill as golf gets, and in a town long known for a more formal bearing, it might be the best use of 10 acres in the game.

Pine Needles Lodge and Golf Course in Southern Pines, N.C. (Courtesy of Pine Needles)

There is more to Pinehurst than the behemoth resort. A few miles away is Pine Needles, another Donald Ross course, long owned by the late Hall of Fame teacher Peggy Kirk Bell, whose family still runs the place. Pine Needles and its sister course, Mid-Pines, were both restored in recent years by Kyle Franz, who cut his teeth working on projects like Pacific Dunes in Oregon, Barnbougle Dunes in Australia and, closer to home, the No. 2 restoration.

Pine Needles recaptures every tease of Ross’s imagination, tumbling over heaving terrain with every hole beautifully framed amid the pines. Its green complexes are the equal of most any you’ll find. Adding to the thrill ride: Pine Needles offers Finn Cycles, sporty two-wheeled motorized scooters that carry both bag and player. They might not clean your clubs, but nor do they give you a bad yardage or mock your misreads, plus after 18 holes you dismount feeling like Steve McQueen.

Tobacco Road near Pinehurst, N.C. (Courtesy of Pinehurst)

Just as there are dozens of fine courses within range of the Old in St. Andrews, the sandhills too offers more options than most travelers have days to spend. One I am loath to pass up is Tobacco Road, located in Sanford, halfway between Pinehurst and the airport in Raleigh. Arguably the most polarizing course in America, Tobacco Road is a wildly engrossing design by the late architect Mike Strantz. It has its share of blind shots – some of them on putts – but there is not a single dull shot among its 18 incredibly varied holes. It is well worth a detour.

What ultimately connects Pinehurst and St. Andrews is not simply history but evolution, the fact that they are living museums to this ancient game. Both are grounded in old sepia images of dour Scots and gentlemen golfers, but each has in its own way adapted to ever-changing challenges, audiences and eras. And that’s perhaps the most impressive accomplishment evident now in Pinehurst: that so much has been added, while nothing has been lost. 

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