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Discover historic wonders at Montana’s Pictograph Cave State Park
Witness the magic.
One of the West’s most prolific archeological sites is surprisingly accessible. Pictograph Cave State Park is right outside of Billings, Montana. It’s famous for pictographs inside caves and for a phenomenal dig in the 1930s that revealed more than 30,000 artifacts.
“That really put it on the map of archeology in the West,” said Richard Tooke, the park’s ranger/manager/chief cook and bottle washer.
The 23-acre park includes three caves and is located about seven miles south of Billings. At roughly 50,000 visitors per year, it’s one of the busiest parks in south-central Montana. But when I visited on a Monday morning in early June, there were only a few other folks around. Here’s what I saw there and what you can look forward to when you visit.
Pictographs
So, what do the pictographs depict? It’s hard to say for a couple of reasons.
“At least 12 different Northern Plains Indigenous tribes were in and out of here,” said Tooke. Modern Indigenous people might not know what all the pictographs represent. And if they do, they might not want to share that intel with outsiders. Plus, the porous sandstone is not a permanent artistic medium. When people started studying the pictographs in the 1930s, artists recorded about 105 of them. Now it’s hard to see half that many, as rock layers slough off and minerals build up.
Tooke estimates that Montana has 650 to 700 known pictograph sites. Most are on private ranch lands or on remote public lands. “This is one of the few places where people can just get off the interstate and in ten minutes hike up to the cave and see rock art and kind of contemplate this history of these native people being there for thousands of years doing everything people do in life,” Tooke said. The rock art chronicles the lives of long-ago people. “Some of it’s about their spirituality, some of it is simply you know, a grocery list. A grouping of animals, perhaps. This is what you can find here when you hunt and gather.”
In winter, warm air occasionally hits the super chilled rock just right, and additional pictographs become visible. On those days, “You can see 20 or 30 more pictographs than you can see on a drier surface,” Tooke said. The local Crow people call this place Alahpaláaxawaalaatuua, which means a place where there is spirit writing. Tooke said that many visitors still consider the park a place with “a heavy presence of spirits and energy.”
I visited on a dry day where it was hard to identify all but the most obvious pictographs, such as a grouping of red rifles. I relied heavily on signage to help me find the pictographs on the cave wall.
Wildlife at Pictograph Cave State Park
Pictograph Cave State Park is also popular with migratory birds and other wildlife. The visitor center posts a list of about three dozen birds that have recently flown by, including the pinyon jay, northern flicker, Merriam turkey, and the hairy woodpecker.
Tooke told me about a mule deer who for several years running left her fawn on the floor of one of the caves while she went off to forage. “She was pretty smart about leaving her baby where the people would probably dissuade any big cat from coming through,” he said.
The park also has porcupines, coyotes, mule deer, bobcats, mountain lions, and five different types of snakes. Indeed, I was impressed by the most aggressive depiction of a rattlesnake I’ve ever seen on a park warning sign.
Pictograph Cave State Park recreation and education
Visitors also come for recreation. Hikers enjoy a circular trail system, while cyclists like the park roads. Even bikers enjoy the region.
“There’s a lot of motorcycle rallies in the area, and those guys are always in and out,” Tooke said.
In addition to offering recreation opportunities, education is a big part of the park’s job. In the fall, many school groups visit. Montana’s Indian Education for All program requires school curricula to cover Indigenous people. A trip to see the pictographs is a fun way to learn. Astronomy clubs also like to bring their telescopes for night sky viewing events.
Tooke is happy to lead the park’s conservation mission. He explains that he enjoys “taking care of these kind of roadside attractions that have historic cultural meaning and are part of our heritage as Montanans.” Tooke adds that Montanans “take pride in our state park systems and the place we live in.”
Pictograph Cave State Park is open year-round: seven days a week in summer, and five days a week the rest of the year.
What it’s like swimming with marine life at Orlando’s Discovery Cove
Dive in.
I sit on a rock in an artificial lagoon, watching workers feed rays. “One for Pinky!” a worker calls as she throws a fish to a large pink whipray. Another woman notes the treat on a clipboard. There’s only one pink whipray in the lagoon, but I’m really impressed when the keepers can tell the five spotted eagle rays apart. These tropical rays can reach 10 feet wide and 16 feet long. Despite looking pretty flat, they tip the scales at more than 500 pounds. Here, the biggest eagle ray weighs in at a svelte 290.
In a land of theme parks, Orlando, Florida’s Discovery Cove is a relaxing respite from lining up for rides. Owned by SeaWorld, it’s a manicured nature experience — the fake coral is brightly painted like an amusement park ride backdrop, and the rays have their barbs clipped so they can’t sting you. It’s part aquarium, part water park, and a lot of fun if you can stomach animals in captivity. While I’m always conflicted about animal attractions, I really enjoyed my day at Discovery Cove.
About Discovery Cove
Discovery Cove opened in 2000 and bills itself as “an all-inclusive day resort.” You arrive in the morning between 7 and 9, show your ID, get your lanyard, then enter the lush grounds.
Breakfast and lunch at a big cafeteria are included in your admission, as are shorty wetsuits, towels, lockers, and animal-safe sunscreen. Guests can add extra amenities such as a private beach cabana or animal experiences like snorkeling with sharks or feeding flamingos.
Freshwater swimming at Discovery Cove
The park is divided into three main water areas: freshwater, the Grand Reef, and a dolphin lagoon. After eating breakfast — they made a special vegan tofu scramble for me, which was very nice — I decided to start with the warm freshwater area, with a water temperature in the low 80s. You can lounge in a couple of lagoons or grab a pool noodle and float along the lazy river.
I wound up drifting the lazy river three times over the course of the day. The best part is after passing through a pounding curtain of water, you float right into a fabulous aviary with gorgeous tropical birds flying overhead. You can float on through or get out of the water and feed birds from cups of chopped fruit. The lazy river alternates between being shallow enough to stand and depths of about 8 feet.
Exploring the Grand Reef
My favorite part of the park was swimming with rays and tropical fish in the Grand Reef. It was a little crowded, with snorkelers bumping into each other at times, but exciting to be so close to so many rays. There were shallow parts where people could stand and deeper parts for floating or swimming.
The shovelnose ray, which mostly spends its time on the sandy bottom, was especially large and odd-looking. People who are anxious about real-life snorkeling in the ocean will appreciate the safety of having the park’s sharks separated from the main lagoon.
Swim with dolphins
Swimming with bottlenose dolphins is perhaps Discovery Cove’s most popular animal interaction — and the most controversial. The Humane Society and other animal welfare organizations have come out strongly against swim with dolphin attractions. It was not something I’d ever planned to do. But as a visiting travel writer, I found myself with a booked appointment time. The dolphin swim was going to happen with or without me, so I decided to see for myself what it was all about.
At the appointed time, participants were divided into groups of about 10 or 12, paired with a trainer, an assistant, and a dolphin. Coral, 23 years old and born into captivity, was our dolphin. We humans waded into the chilly lagoons, wearing our wetsuits. When the trainer signaled, Coral swam up to us. We got a little education, a lot of photo ops where we took turns posing with Coral, and a few dolphin tricks. It was cool to get up close and pet her rubbery tail, but I was embarrassed to see a creature smarter than I am reduced to making fart sounds for laughing tourists.
Throughout my day at Discovery Cove, I asked various employees what they thought about swim with dolphin experiences. The strongest justification is the same one that’s always used for zoos: people don’t care about things we don’t see and experience. The idea is that if we see animals in captivity, we’ll care about preserving them in the wild. This could lead to votes and dollars benefiting conservation efforts.
One employee said that she believes this is the most humane swim with dolphin concession, and she wouldn’t do it anywhere else. The keepers assured me that the dolphins can choose whether or not to participate on any given day, and they get the same amount of food either way.
I asked what the dolphins get out of towing visitors across the lagoon while we hold onto their dorsal fins and flippers. “It’s enrichment,” the trainer said, adding that she wished she knew more about how much Coral was really enjoying herself. The trainer emphasized that the dolphins have different personalities and different relationships with the trainers. While Coral is keen on interacting with humans, some dolphins can only tolerate us for about five minutes. The trainer told me she hadn’t worked with Coral for a while, so the dolphin probably wanted to hang out with her.
Except for the very oldest dolphins, who were captured before the laws changed, all the Discovery Cove dolphins were born in captivity. Maybe it’s sort of like a different culture. If you’re born in captivity and spend your life in an artificial lagoon, you take whatever fun is on offer —whether that’s interactions with humans or the rich, complex relationships that these creatures have with each other.
If you visit Discovery Cove
If you decide to visit Discovery Cove, sign up ahead, as some of the animal experiences sell out. Wait until you get there to apply sunscreen; the park has animal-safe lotions on tap. If you want a nice base of operations for your group, splurge on a private cabana.
Despite my unease about dolphin swims, this activity gets very high TripAdvisor reviews, with people finding it very special and magical. I was glad to see that all the trainers care about the animals, knowing them by name and treating them as individuals — whether dolphins, flamingos, or eagle rays.
Disclaimer: While this article was not sponsored, Outdoors Wire did visit Kissimmee during a press trip with Experience Kissimmee and its partners. As always, Outdoors Wire operates independently, and this doesn’t influence our coverage.
Get up close and personal with African animals in these stunning photos
See these creatures up close.
“Among the Living: Where You Belong” is one of the heaviest books I’ve ever picked up. This is not a vacation read — it’s a serious photo book you’ll want to display on your coffee table for years, thumbing through and sharing with wildlife-loving visitors. Photographer Guadalupe Laiz shares six years of traveling in Africa to capture intimate portraits of endangered animals.
Laiz is firmly allied with the elephants, lions, and rhinos. The book is dedicated to “the innumerable souls who have died at the hands of humans. And to all humans who fight with their lives to protect them.”
In the introduction, Laiz further explains what drives her to get close to her subjects. “Yes, I hope that one day we humans will finally see animals as our equals, and understand that they can experience joy and suffering just like us. But until then, I will dive deeper, get closer, and put light into those without a voice,” she writes.
What follows is a huge collection of African animal portraits. Most of the photos are up close, so you can see each animal’s face as an individual. Photos taken at a wider angle tend to show relationships — such as an image of an elephant herd where you can pick out individual family groupings. Readers see every fold in an elephant’s skin and the bristles around a hippopotamus’ wide-open mouth. Most photos are in black and white, though some are full-color. Others use limited color to highlight details like green leaves against an otherwise black-and-white composition. Many of the images have very dark or very light backgrounds, squarely keeping the focus on the faces of the animals in a way that gives them extra dignity and individuality.
Laiz spent so much time in certain locales that she got to know some of the animals. One of these animals was a lion known as Bob, Jr., King of Serengeti, who had a fan following among guides and tourists. “There is no feeling like finding Bob Jr. in the morning and trying to understand what he went through the previous night. Sometimes I couldn’t believe the amount of ground he covered in one night. Some mornings there would be blood on his face, he’d look exhausted and be sporting a couple of new scars, but it was also clear that he was satisfied to have a full belly for a few days,” Laiz writes. She grew attached to the lion and often wondered what and how he was doing.
The book is almost entirely photos, with a page of text introducing each section. The main animals Laiz features are gorillas, elephants, lions, giraffes, and rhinos — but some of my favorite photos are her portraits of leopards. Animals are so front and center that Laiz’s author photo shows her from behind, mostly giving readers a look at her ponytail.
Laiz was born and raised in Argentina. German publisher Teneus published her book “Horses of Iceland” in 2019. Australian Images Publishing Group put out “Among the Living, Where You Belong.” If you’re in Aspen, Colorado, you can visit Laiz’s gallery space.
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Stunning new film uses art and music to champion World Oceans Day
Dive in.
Just in time for World Oceans Day on June 7, artist/conservationist Joshua Sam Miller is showing his new 25-minute film “Sounds of the Ocean.” To raise awareness about ocean issues, Miller has offered planetariums around the world a one-week free license to show his film during June. Some of the planetariums taking him up on his offer include Juneau, Alaska’s Marie Drake Planetarium and Uruguay’s Planetario de Montevideo. Check out this list of all the planetariums showing Miller’s film, and learn more about it below.
“Sounds of the Ocean” combines original music, whale and dolphin sounds, art, and ocean imagery to take viewers on an underwater journey. The filmmakers want to demonstrate that oceans are worth protecting.
“Believing in the power of peaceful activism, the project’s intention is to inspire ocean action to protect life underwater, while also helping to reduce stress in our modern society,” an official statement about the film explains.
Miller, the film’s director, grew up surfing and scuba diving. He founded Embodied Sounds, which offers several different types of immersive experiences. These experiences include live music shows, multimedia performances featuring dance, art, and marine life sounds, and, trippiest of all, an underwater music experience offered in heated pools at some spas. Miller’s work has been featured everywhere, from an installation at Burning Man to a presentation during the 26th United Nations Climate Conference.
U.N. World Oceans Day traces its history back to 1992, when Oceans Day was first declared at the Global Forum in Rio de Janeiro. The United Nations officially designated World Oceans Day in 2008. It’s grown since and is usually celebrated around the world on June 8. However, this year, the date is June 7. This 2024 theme is “Awaken New Depths.”
As it says in the 2024 World Oceans Day trailer, “As humans, we depend on the ocean for survival. But compared to what it gives us, we invest little in return.” Instead of continuing to make shallow, short-sighted decisions, World Oceans Day urges humans to conserve the ocean before it’s too late. On June 7, you can join virtually from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. EDT as global policymakers, scientists, activists, and artists discuss how humans can better protect oceans. And look for Sounds of the Ocean coming to a planetarium near you.