It’s a Sunday in spring, and trail ambassadors Kathy and EJ Rossman are explaining Oklahoma’s cross timbers ecosystem to me as we stroll through the Keystone Ancient Forest. I’ve borrowed a darling dog named Hitch and am keeping him on a close leash. We’re in copperhead and timber rattler country here near Sand Springs, Oklahoma.
“We’re just here to help people,” Kathy says, explaining the role of volunteer trail ambassadors. “We tell them a little about the ancient forest. And then trail guides just go out and hike all the trails so that if people need help…” Just then, a hiker asks her for a trail recommendation, and I see her in action.
Keystone has worked hard to make the 1,380-acre forest accessible and inviting, from building a new visitor center to offering burly Trackchairs for wheelchair users. The city of Sand Springs and the Nature Conservancy teamed up to preserve an ecosystem that has largely disappeared.
What are cross timbers?
Cross timbers are new to me. This ecosystem once covered 30,000 square miles, reaching from Texas through Oklahoma and into Kansas. “It’s a joining of the eastern red cedars and the western oaks,” Kathy explains.
“University of Arkansas first identified this as being a special area,” EJ adds as we walk along the Frank Trail. “Cross timbers is — it’s called the ancient forests, but it’s really more of an ecosystem because it’s an assemblage of plants and geography and geology and a mixture of trees and little savannas.”
Coming from Oregon, I don’t find the trees particularly tall. But looks deceive here. “This tree could easily be 60 years old, even though it’s very thin,” Kathy says, pointing to a small oak. Poor soil and lack of sunshine as trees shade one another means they grow slowly. “So you can’t tell the age of the tree just by the diameter of it,” she says. “It really does take coring to see.” Some of the post oaks are 300 years old, and red cedars can reach 500 years.
Author Washington Irving traversed this land in 1832 and left a colorful historical record. He described the “vexations of flesh and spirit” travelers faced “struggling through forests of cast iron.”
Since Irving’s visit, most of the cross timbers have been lost to road construction, agricultural lands, housing, and oil and gas development. Now, the ecosystem also faces invasive species, such as Chinese privet and Japanese honeysuckle. According to the Nature Conservancy website, Keystone Ancient Forest is the first preserve dedicated to preserving historic cross timbers forest.
Updates to the preserve
As a first-time visitor, I had a little trouble finding Keystone Ancient Forest. The Uber app had the wrong address, so my driver and I were confused when we pulled up on a residential block.
“Uh, it’s supposed to be a forest,” I said, confused. Turned out we were about 10 miles off. My driver, an outdoorsy guy who has lived in the area for 40 years, had never heard of the preserve.
Over the last few years, Keystone has worked to raise its profile. Before that, EJ says the preserve was entirely volunteer-run and only opened once or twice a month, depending on the season. He and Kathy have been volunteering here for about 10 years, so they’ve seen the changes. The visitor center opened in 2021 and is one of the most notable improvements.
City staff and volunteers have built trails ranging from easy and paved to the rugged, hilly Falls Trail. A new butterfly savanna, the largest in the state, is a special habitat designed to attract 80 butterfly species.
People who want to borrow a Trackchair can reserve ahead — and they can choose between right and left-handed controls.
Keystone Ancient Forest dog days and other events
On a dog-friendly day, I was lucky enough to borrow an adorable pup named Hitch from a generous employee. Leashed dogs are currently allowed on the first and third weekends of the month. But check the website before your visit, as rules are subject to change.
Guests looking to visit for special events will be happy to know that Keystone Ancient Forest offers a handful of fun activities throughout the year. For the last 10 years, the preserve has held an annual fundraising trail run. Runners can sign up for a 5K, 10K, or 15K.
At night, you might find an astronomy club setting up in the parking lot, taking advantage of Keystone’s dark skies. Guided night hikes are also occasionally offered. Kathy especially likes the late-night New Year’s Eve hike. “You can come out here and do a night hike into a new year,” she says.
The Keystone Ancient Forest is a great asset for those in the Tulsa area and visitors wanting to learn about the cross timbers ecosystem. Learn even more about it here.